Cab Mount/ Body Mount Relocation Install Instructions For Tacoma, 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, GX460, GX470, Tundra, and Sequoia

Read the entire instructions before starting the installation.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

• ✅ Confirm all kit components are present (see packing slip).

• ✅ Park the vehicle on a flat, level surface to ensure accurate alignment during installation.

• ✅ Disconnect the vehicle battery to prevent electrical shorts or damage while welding.

  • Disconnect both the positive and negative battery terminals and zip-tie them out of the way to prevent accidental contact during cutting and welding.

• ✅ Read the entire instructions before starting the installation.

IMPORTANT REMINDERS

⚠️ Important Welding Sequence Reminder

• Do NOT weld the cab mount bracket to the backing plate before welding the backing plate to the frame.

• Some fabricators make this mistake, assuming it saves time, but it creates serious alignment problems.

• The frame will naturally distort slightly as you weld the backing plate on. If the cab mount bracket is already welded to the backing plate at this stage, the bracket can pull out of alignment due to heat distortion.

• By welding the backing plate to the frame first and allowing it to cool, you create a solid foundation. Only then should the cab mount bracket be welded to the properly positioned and cooled backing plate.

⚠️ This is a structural install—hire a qualified fabricator if you are not experienced with welding and frame work.

⚠️ Always wear proper PPE.

⚠️ Keep a fire extinguisher close during cutting and welding.

⚠️ Protect wire harnesses, KDSS/XREAS lines, coilover shock shafts, steering shaft boots, and CV boots with heavy-duty foil or heat blankets.

⚠️ Improper installation can cause frame damage or vehicle failure.

TOOLS & SUPPLIES NEEDED

• Two jack stands (required for safely supporting the vehicle frame during installation)

• Two floor jacks recommended—one for each side of the cab to make leveling and lifting easier (you can complete the job with one floor jack, but adjustments will be more difficult)

• Basic hand tools (wrenches, sockets, etc.)

• Cutting tools: Angle grinder with cutoff wheel & flap disc

  • Sawzall or plasma cutter will make this easier but are not required

• MIG welder (required)

• Clamps (C-clamps or welding clamps)

• Tape measure

• PPE: safety glasses, gloves, welding helmet, ear protection

• Heavy-duty aluminum foil or heat-resistant welding blankets

• Paint / Primer

  • We recommend Rust-Oleum 15-Minute High Performance Enamel Flat Black Spray Paint, as it has proven to be a durable coating and closely matches the factory frame finish.

STEP-BY-STEP INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

STEP 1: DISASSEMBLE INTERIOR & PREP THE VEHICLE FOR CUTTING

• ✅ Park the vehicle on a flat, level surface.

• ✅ Disconnect the vehicle battery before welding.

  • Disconnect both battery terminals and zip-tie them out of the way.

• Chock the rear wheels to prevent any movement.

• Lift one side at a time until the front tire comes off the ground.

• Place a jack stand under the frame in a convenient location where:

  • You still have room beside it for a floor jack to lift the cab.

  • You have adequate space to perform the necessary fabrication work.

• Remove the front wheels to gain better access to the cab mount area.

• Remove interior trim panels, carpet, and insulation near the cab mount area.

• Pull back all flammable materials to prevent fire or heat damage during welding and cutting.

• Keep a fire extinguisher easily accessible.

➡️ Take multiple body-to-frame measurements using several reference points near the cab mount.

• Record measurements from key cab points to fixed frame points (both horizontally and vertically).

• Compare measurements from the driver and passenger sides for symmetry.

• Take photos for additional reference.

STEP 2: INSPECT AND PROTECT WIRING, LINES, AND SENSITIVE COMPONENTS

Before cutting or welding, inspect the front cab mount area for:

• Factory wire harnesses (typically routed along the inside or top of the frame)

• Aftermarket wiring

• KDSS/XREAS hydraulic lines

• Coilover shock shafts, steering shaft boots, and CV boots

• Move, secure, or protect these components by wrapping them in heavy-duty aluminum foil or a heat-resistant welding blanket.

• Zip-tie or relocate items safely away from the work area.

STEP 3: PREP THE CAB FOR LIFTING

⚠️ Check for aftermarket accessories (bumpers, sliders, skid plates, etc.) that may interfere with lifting the cab. Remove or loosen these components as needed.

⚠️ On some vehicles, the ABS sensor wire between the cab and frame can be extremely short and may overstretch during lifting.

• Remove the 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor wire bracket on top of the coilover tower to provide additional slack.

• Remove the cab mount bushing bolt and the lower half of the cab mount bushing. The cab will rest on the upper half of the bushing.

• Move to the forward-most cab mount under the headlight area. Remove the nut, washer, and bottom half of the bushing. Leave the bolt installed—this will help maintain lateral alignment and prevent excessive horizontal movement, while allowing you to lift the front of the cab higher.

STEP 4: SUPPORT AND LIFT THE CAB

• Use a floor jack with a rubber pad under the cab pinch weld or designated jacking point.

• Only lift one side of the cab at a time. Keep the opposite side of the cab as close to its resting position as possible.

• Lift the cab just enough to allow clearance for cutting off the old cab mount bracket. Do NOT over-lift or shift cab alignment.

• Each time you lift the cab, confirm that the vehicle frame is still securely resting on the jack stands.

• We recommend using two adjustable-height jacks—one for each side of the cab—if possible.

• Always use a minimum of two jack stands to stabilize the frame securely before cutting and welding.

STEP 5: REMOVE THE FACTORY CAB MOUNT & BRACKET

• Cut off the factory cab mount bracket using an angle grinder, Sawzall, or plasma cutter.

  • Be extremely careful not to cut into the frame—the factory frame is already thin and can be easily damaged.

  • If using a plasma cutter, take extra care to control the heat and avoid cutting into the frame.

• After cutting, grind away all remaining welds using a flap disc or grinder until the frame is smooth.

  • Do not grind into the frame material itself.

• Alternate work between both sides of the frame to keep heat input low and avoid warping the frame.

• Clean the area thoroughly after grinding.

✅ If you are installing this kit due to a failed relocation kit that cracked your frame, now is the time to repair it:

• Use a die grinder to grind out some material along the crack lines to create a groove for a stronger filler weld.

• Weld the cracks closed carefully, filling the grooves.

• Also fill and repair any grooves or cuts you may have made in the frame while removing the old cab mount.

• After welding, grind down the filler welds until they are flush with the frame surface.

• A professional fabricator with experience in frame repair should handle any crack repair to ensure structural integrity.

STEP 6: FIT AND INSTALL THE BACKING PLATE

• Both sides of the cab should be set to the correct height and level between each other.

• Install the cab mount bushing into the new cab mount bracket.

• Bolt the cab mount bracket onto the truck using the original hardware, hand-tight.

• Bend the backing plate in a vise as needed to match the frame's contour.

• Fit the backing plate behind the cab mount bracket and confirm alignment.

• Center the relief slots on the bracket, and vertically center the backing plate at the base of the frame.

• Tack weld the backing plate into place.

• Remove the cab mount bracket and lift the cab for better access if needed.

• Fully weld the backing plate, alternating weld areas and sides to minimize heat buildup.

STEP 7: POSITION, ALIGN, AND WELD THE CAB MOUNT BRACKET

• After the backing plate cools, install the bushing into the cab mount bracket and bolt the bracket and bushing back onto the cab using the original hardware.

• Set the cab so it sits 3/16" higher than its original position to account for bushing compression and settling over time.

• Confirm alignment with your earlier reference points and body lines.

• Tack weld the cab mount bracket to the backing plate in several places.

• Recheck alignment after the initial tacks and make any necessary adjustments.

• Fully weld the cab mount bracket to the backing plate in short, alternating sections.

  • Alternate between different areas of the bracket to minimize heat buildup.

  • Switch between the driver and passenger side brackets to allow cooling and reduce distortion.

• Inspect welds for consistency and penetration once cooled.

STEP 8: CLEAN AND COAT WELDED AREAS

• Use a wire wheel or wire brush to clean the welds.

• Apply rust preventative coating, weld-through primer, or chassis paint to all bare metal surfaces.

  • Recommended: Rust-Oleum 15-Minute High Performance Enamel Flat Black Spray Paint.

  • Apply at least 3 coats of paint for optimal protection and coverage.

• Allow coatings to fully dry before continuing.

STEP 9: INSTALL CAB MOUNT BUSHINGS AND HARDWARE

• Install the cab mount bushings and hardware into the cab mount bracket.

• Slowly lower the cab onto the new mounts.

• Torque cab mount bolts to factory specifications.

• Inspect and unwrap any protected components.

STEP 10: FINAL INSPECTION AND REASSEMBLY

• Install and reassemble all hardware and parts you removed during the install.

  • Reinstall wheels, interior trim panels, ABS sensor brackets, wiring, or any other removed components.

• Reconnect the battery once everything has been completely reassembled and inspected.

✅ After 100 miles, inspect all welds and hardware for tightness.

✅ Address any unusual noises or alignment issues immediately.